Monday, November 09, 2009

Berlin - The Capitol of Freedom Twenty Years Later

Today marks 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall, the precursor to the collapse of the USSR and the end of the Cold War.

As a veteran of the occupied city of Berlin in the end of the 1980's, I would like to salute all of my colleagues and the many who went before us in preserving freedom within the Divided City and ultimately extending it to the East German Capitol and into all of Eastern Europe, liberating millions of people who had lived for decades behind the Iron Curtain.

After 20 years, the Cold War is to my children what WWII was to me growing up. It is history. But it remains a very real history to anyone who drove past the Soviet guards and winding concrete barriers at Checkpoint Charlie, through the "protective" wall that Walter Ulbricht declared "no one had any intention of building." It is a very real history to the many Eastern Europeans who were born during those years and knew nothing else.

By November 9, 1989, almost ten percent of the East German population had officially applied for exit visas. And on that date, they were all granted. After watching West German television (three channels were received by about 80% of the East Germans) for almost 40 years, the contrast of the black-and-white version of life gave way to a colorful reality beyond the ten-inch screen in the corner of the apartment.

Seven years earlier, the Great Communicator, President Ronald Reagan, presciently declared that Marxism-Leninism was headed for the "ash heap of history," and two years before the wall fell, he made his now-famous "Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall" speech at the Brandenburg Gate. As one of the thousands of people in the audience along Unter den Linden that day, I must say that although it was powerful, its effect was still unimagined by most.

The wall came down in a quiet revolution, without a shot being fired. But in truth, many shots had been fired prior to November 9, 1989. The American forces in Berlin numbered under 10,000 in the face of 350,000 Russians and 150,000 East Germans. There were 382 American soldiers killed during the Cold War, one of whom, Major Arthur Nicholson, was shot in Ludwigslust by a Soviet sniper the year before our group arrived in Berlin. That same year, the LaBelle disco in downtown Berlin was blown up by Libyan terrorists. While 5,000 people successfully escaped into West Berlin in the 28 years the wall divided the city, almost 1,000 were killed in the attempt along the entire Iron Curtain.

In 1990, the year after the Wall fell, Senator Bob Dole made a speech at Capitol Hill that dovetails with Ronald Reagan's of three years before: "You have won the Cold War. Your underappreciated valor helped topple the Berlin Wall, and bring down dictators the world over... For the past four decades the world behind the Iron Curtain... looked to Americans for hope, and America looked to you to get the job done. Today, the free world says thank you."

And now, twenty years after the fall, Checkpoint Charlie remains a museum. May it stay that way.

(Here's a link to a great slideshow from Google.)

- I've added this excellent five-minute tribute video sent from one of my Field Station colleagues.